Thursday, September 18, 2008

Millennium Harbourview Hotel Xiamen (Xiamen's Best Hotel)

Xiamen has hundreds of quality hotels but the best is Xiamen's oldest international hotel--the Millennium Harbourview Hotel Xiamen. Here's why.

#1 Service. Many of the top managers have served here since it's opening 15 years ago. These experienced leaders in the hotel industry are committed to providing the best experience possible for their clients. To do this, they offer unsurpassed training (even a newly hired dishwasher, in his 50s, told me he received several weeks training about the hotel!). At Millennium Harbourview, if you need it, they have it--or will find a way to provide it.

#1 Location. A couple weeks ago an American government delegation visited the 2008 China International Fair for Investment and Trade (CIFIT), and stayed at the Sheraton. The Sheraton is nice, to be sure--but the location...? The Americans complained, "Nothing to do out there!" So the last day they moved to the Millennium Harbourview, and were delighted by its downtown location--only a 5 minute walk to Zhongshan Rd. (our Main Street, and a great area to stroll or shop), and only a ten minute walk to the Gulangyu Ferry.

#1 Exquisite Chinese and International Cuisine! The Millennium Harbourview Xiamen has several of Xiamen's top restaurants--the best Western buffet in town (can't beat their breakfast), the incomparable Portofino (Italian), the Japanese Sakura, the Chinese Loong Yuen (excellent Cantonese, vegetarian, etc.). You'll also enjoy watching their Wizard of Pasta rolling in the dough!

Visit our Millennium Harvourview Xiamen page for more details--and then visit our family favorite hotel for a night, or a week--or settle down!

Reservations: 0086-592-2023333-6233/6668
Front Desk: 0086-592-2023333 FAX: 2036666
Add: 12-8 Zhēnhǎi Lù 镇海路12-8号
Email: bc@millenniumxiamen.com
Official Website: http://millenniumxiamen.com/en/index.asp

Enjoy Amoy!

Why Chinese Dogs are Shy

Every time Sue and I took our early morning walks around the little town of Reedley, California, dogs fences barked and howled and frothed at the mouth, pawing at the wood or chain link fences, ready to attack; one little poor excuse of a dog did chase us down, nipping at Sue's heels--even as the owner watched and smiled.

But dogs aren't so vicious here in China--at least in Xiamen. Some bark and howl, but it lacks the vicious undertone--perhaps because Chinese dogs know their place. Unlike arrogant, American dogs, Chinese dogs know they could just as easily end up in the kitchen as in the SPCA (Click Here for Canine Cuisine).

In America we say it is "raining cats and dogs," but not in China, because dogs would hit the woks long before they hit the ground. A Hakka man told me that during the war with Japan, Chinese soldiers so craved their potatoes 'n puppies that they'd sell their sleeping bags or tent for a feast of canine cuisine. (Probably sold their pup tents).

Chinese often ask why I came to China and I often reply, "Because Chinese food is too expensive in America." And I do delight in having, daily, great Chinese food that doesn't cost and arm and a leg (though the Taiwan headhunters 100 years ago might have charged that). And I've eaten almost everything imaginable, it seems, including Xiamen people's favorite--jellyfish and seaworms. Chinese eat anything edible, and if it isn't edible, they ingest in anyway and call it medicine. But I've never eaten dog, and never will. My sons Shannon and Matt have. They've even ordered it (poor guys have been here too long). But I draw the line at dogs--and cats too.

But let it be known back in Reedley, California, that the next time my wife and I go for a walk, I'm taking a wok and cleaver with me. There's a first time for everything, and pit bull might be just fine as barbeque pit bull.

Enjoy Amoy!
Dr. Bill www.amoymagic.com

Sunday, September 14, 2008

These are the Magi--Gift-Giving in China

Adapted from "Magic Xiamen--Guide to Xiamen & Fujian"

He who gives when he is asked has waited too long. Chinese Proverb

The Art of Chinese Gift-giving
It is written that the wise men who brought gifts to the Christ child came from the East. I suspect they meant China, because 1) you can't get any further East than China, and 2) Chinese have raised giving to an art form.

Our first Christmas in China, our elderly dean gave our two sons a toy electric car that set him back at least a week's wages. Two months later, on Chinese New Year, a teacher gave each of our sons a Hongbao (Red Envelope) stuffed with 100 rmb-a small fortune by that teacher's standards. Any doubts on the importance of gifts in China vanished when I read Lesson 38 in, "Modern Chinese Beginner's Course." The correct response to an impromptu invitation to a Chinese friend's home was, "But we haven't brought any gift.

Gift giving rituals vary around China. Tibetans give a white silk scarf, while Hainan Islanders place a lei of flowers over guests' shoulders. In Xiamen, the most common gifts are bags of fruit or packages of our local Oolong tea.

Xiamen folk avoid giving odd numbers of gifts. It must be two bottles of Chenggang medicinal wine, not one or three bottles, or 4 boxes of Tiekuanyin tea, never three or five. The gifts must be proffered respectfully with two hands, and accepted with two hands.

Americans have no qualms in giving an inexpensive gift or card to convey a sentiment because it's the thought that counts. But not in China, where face is everything, and a small or trifling gift may be worse than no gift at all. Conversely and perversely, the larger the gift, the more face for both parties. Over the years, our face has been lifted more times than Elizabeth Taylor's.

Guests have materialized on our threadbare astroturf welcome mat with 50 bananas, or 30 pounds of roasted Longyan peanuts, or 15 pounds of freshly caught fish, or 4 dozen freshly fried home-made spring rolls. We've protested, futilely, that 50 pounds of bananas will rot before we can finish them off. In the end, we either go on banana binges or make a quick pilgrimage to a Chinese colleague's home with a second-hand gift of bananas, tea, dried mushrooms or fresh fish. They probably pass them off too, but somewhere down the line some soul has to get 50 pounds of bananas down the hatch.

Where's the Beef? We had some knotty experiences until we learned the ropes of Chinese gift giving. Shortly after we moved into Chinese professor's housing, Susan baked chocolate cake, which at that time few Xiamen folk had tried. She gave our neighbor a couple of slices to sample, and the astonished granny thanked her profusely and shut her door slowly, politely. Next morning, bright and early, she rapped on our door, and thrust a plate full of beef in Sue's face. She said, "For you," and beat a hasty retreat, ignoring Susan's protests.

"This is terrible, Bill," Sue said. "She should not have done that."

"This is great, Sue." I retorted. "Two pounds of beef costs a lot more than two slices of cake. Think how much we'll save on meat if we give cake to all our neighbors."

Now I know why Marie Antoinette gave everyone cake.

It is Cheaper to Give Than to Receive Nowadays, we are more careful (though not paranoid!) with gift-giving, because it can be costly for all concerned. Those whom we give gifts feel compelled to reciprocate, whether they can afford it or not. As for receiving gifts… they sometimes have more strings than ribbons. But all things considered, I still think Chinese are the Magi-particularly where family and homeland are concerned.

Giving to the Motherland
When overseas Chinese labored in abject poverty in the mines and fields of Africa and Colonial Asia, or to build American railroads, they invariably sent a large portion of their meager earnings home to family. It was these pittances, multiplied a million fold, that kept China afloat when we were bleeding her dry through the opium trade. Some laborers became industrial magnates, like Tan Kak Kee, and donated millions to China. Even today, regardless of political persuasions, overseas Chinese continue to remit millions annually not only to their mainland relatives but to local governments to build schools, colleges, orphanages, and roads.

Chinese, rich and poor alike, are a generous people. A lowly mason who lives in a shack nearby gave me 5 pounds of freshly netted fish because he heard my in-laws were visiting from America. A disabled, retired campus laborer shows up occasionally with fresh greens from his garden, or new flowers for our yard. When word got around that I wanted a stone mill to grind wheat, several peasants headed to the rural stone quarries, and we were blessed with not one mill but three (never again will I take wheat for granite).

The mason, the disabled laborer, the peasants, sought nothing in return. They gave because we were friends-like the poor bicycle repairman who repeatedly insists, "It's a small thing. Pay me when you have a real problem to fix." The man's entire world is but a tiny, dusty shop only 8 feet wide and 4 feet deep. Greased bike chains and sprockets, rims and tires and tubes, bike seats and pedals hang from nails on the walls. His furniture consists of two bamboo stools, one for himself and one for customers, and a bamboo footstool that doubles as a table for his cheap tea set, which he sets up every time I stop by. He has spent more serving me tea than he will ever make from fixing my battered bicycle.

Chinese have always given sacrificially to family and their immediate community, but charity beyond that was rare, for it was seen as depriving family and local community of scarce resources. But times are better now, and Beijing is seeking to widen the scope of giving.

Half a dozen programs encourage wealthier urbanites to help their less fortunate and far more numerous comrades in the countryside. Every year, "Project Hope" (????) allows millions of urban Chinese to help fund poor rural children's education. And "Helping Hand" pairs up city kids and country kids, who write to each other and exchange gifts.

Get involved!

Many foreign firms and individuals have participated in campaigns like Project Hope. For details on how to get involved, contact your Chinese colleagues or the municipal government. You can even arrange with local governments to help sponsor schools or poorer students. Opportunities are limited only by your imagination and your purse.

Gold Rats and Oxen A Ming Dynasty Tale (1368-1644)
On his birthday, an official's subordinates chipped in to give him a life-sized solid gold rat, since he was born in the year of the rat (each year of a twelve year cycle has a different animal). The official thanked them, then asked, "Did you know that my wife's birthday is coming up? She was born in the year of the ox."

If no Xiamen, no U.S.A.!


U.S. to Expand Presence in Xiamen and Fujian?
The U.S. Consulate in Guangzhou, I hear, may be expanding its work in Fujian Province, including Xiamen! That's good news for Xiamen--and the U.S. as well. Fujian, especially Xiamen, is very strategic for the U.S., and has been for centuries. It's 1/3 of the way between Hong Kong and Shanghai, on the coast facing Taiwan, home to most Overseas Chinese, home to China's only Key university in a Special Economic Zone (Xiamen University), and, most importantly, my home. :)

No Xiamen, no U.S.A.?
And, as I told over 400 American business people in a luncheon in Guangzhou a couple years ago, after Condoleeza (sp.?) Rice's special advisor had lectured us for half an hour, had it not been for Xiamen, there would not even be a U.S. of A! Remember the Boston Tea Party? December, 1773--the tea tossed into the sea was Anxi tea, shipped out of Xiamen Harbor. So were it not for Xiamen we'd still be a British colony and our judges would be wearing white wigs. I rest my case.
Enjoy Amoy!
Dr. Bill www.amoymagic.com

Saturday, September 13, 2008

Mooncake Game Origin and Rules

Adapted from “Discover Gulangyu”《魅力鼓浪屿》

Mooncake Game was started about 1500 years ago by scholars craving success in imperial exams. The total of 63 prizes, based on various dice combinations, was named after imperial titles earned from the exam:

One prize for #1 Scholar (Zhuangyuan) The seven prize levels:

Highest 1. Zhuangyuan with Gold Flower

2. Hongliubo (6 fours)

3. Yaodianliubo (6 ones)

4. Heiliubo (6 of the same, except fours)

5. Wuhong (5 fours)

6. Wuzi (5 of the same, except fours)

Lowest 7. Sihong (4 fours)

Two prizes for No. 2 Scholar (Duitang) A straight.
Four prizes for No. 3 Scholar (Sanhong) Throw 3 fours

Eight prizes for No. 4 Scholar (Sijin) Throw 4 of the same, except fours

Sixteen prizes for No. 5 Scholar (Erju) Throw 2 fours

Thirty two prizes for No. 6 Scholar (Yixiu) Throw 1 four

Rules and names of dice combos have changed little over the centuries, but chips have changed from common coins to Zhuàngyuán chips and cakes (Gǔlàngyú’s are most famous). Oddly, some people in N.E. Fújiàn’s Fúdǐng County (福鼎县) speak S. Fújiàn dialect, and still use “Zhuàngyuán Chips”.

Legend has it that one of Koxinga’s officers adapted dice game rules to create the mooncake game in order to preoccupy homesick soldiers, and according to many Qīng Dynasty writers, such as Zhèng Dàjiǔ (郑大久), in “Taiwanese Folk Customs” (《台湾民俗》), for centuries afterwards Táiwān folk stayed up all night shouting and tossing dice to compete for the large flour cake with a red “Yuán” character in the center.

Today the mooncake game is found not only in S. Fújiàn and Táiwān but also, it appears, wherever you find overseas Chinese of Xiàmén ancestry. A reader e-mailed me to say, “We play the Mooncake Game in the Philippines too!” Perhaps. But only in Xiàmén is the game preserved virtually unchanged. Even during the “Cultural Revolution,” when all “old” thinking and practices were frowned upon, Xiamen folk tossed the dice for mooncakes—though furtively!

In 2003, Gǔlàngyú’s first annual Mooncake Game Cultural Festival attracted crowds of locals, as well as domestic and overseas visitors and the media, and since then the game has become more popular than ever—though mooncakes are no longer the prize of choice (mooncakes, like fruitcake in America, are traditional but not necessarily all that tasty). Prizes today are usually more practical, like shampoo, towels, thermoses, blankets, or cutlery.

Happy Mooncake Gambling!

Mid-Autumn Festival (Zhōngqiūjié 中秋节), aka Moon Festival, on the 15th day of the 8th Luny month, is Xiàmén’s most festive occasion, thanks in part to our unique Mooncake Game.
You should know that the first person on the moon was not a man but a woman--not Neil Armstrong but Chang-O, a Chinese beauty who fled earth during to the Xià Dynasty (2205-1766 BC). During Moon Festival, worshippers of this Moon Goddess offer her moon-cakes, tea and fruit, and Hell money.

Before Moon Festival, people present mooncakes to family, friends, co-workers and bosses. In Táiwān’s private schools, teachers give mooncakes to students, and students reciprocate with a cash-stuffed Red Envelope—a practice XMU should adopt.

Girls used to believe that the later they went to sleep on Moon Festival Eve, the longer their mother would live, so many girls stayed up all night (I think I’d start worrying if my daughter yawned and turned in early that night).

Wealthy but unmarried girls past their prime used to throw an embroidered ball out their window into a crowd of single men who happened to be loitering about. She could choose whom to throw the ball to, and if he caught it he had to marry her.

If he didn’t live happily ever after, he at least had a ball.

In the evening, families reunite to eat mooncakes, drink wine, guess riddles, and in Southern Fújiàn and Táiwān, play the “mooncake game” that some say Koxinga invented to keep his homesick troops occupied after they kicked the Dutch out of Táiwān.

Moon-Cake Game players take turns tossing 6 mahjong dice into a bowl, taking care that none bounce out (or they lose a turn).

Prizes range from tiny cookies to medium and large mooncakes, with each representing an official position won in the ancient imperial exams. The one grand prize, Zhuàngyuán (状元), represents #1 scholar; Duìtáng (对堂) is #2 scholar; Sānhóng (三红) is #3 scholar, etc.

The green bean and egg and fruit stuffed mooncakes are not the tastiest concoctions but they are traditional, kind of like fruitcakes back home, which are more or less edible but serve better as doorstops, paperweights and hand weapons. Nowadays, many Chinese are replacing mooncakes with fruits, food, or practical items like towels, toothpaste, and detergent. Our family wins enough toothpaste each year to last out the year. If we ever miss Moon Festival, our dentist will be first to know.

The mooncake game is fun, even addicting. When our sons were small, they played all year, competing for cakes they had carefully drawn and cut from cardboard.

They were probably just as tasty as the real thing.

Mooncake game rules can be confusing. For example, even if you win the Zhuàngyuán, someone else can abscond with it by throwing a higher winning combination. But not to worry. The game is really a piece of cake. Just study the rules I provide on the next page and you can learn the ropes before your Chinese hosts hang you with them.


Happy Holidays in China!

Happy Holidays! Which ones? Take your pick! Over the past 5,020 years, [I was told China is 5000 years old but that was 20 years ago) Chinese have created so many holidays that it’s a wonder they don’t celebrate non-holidays for being so rare. And some Minnan traditions, like Mid-autumn Festival mooncake games, are unlike anything else in China (see next post).

To add to the merry mayhem, and perhaps as an excuse to celebrate the rare days that aren’t already holidays, Chinese are also adopting Western holidays.

Santa Bless You! There was not a Christmas tree in site when we came in 1988, but now Chinese seem to celebrate the Yuletide as much as we do. Even post offices have Christmas trees, and church loudspeakers broadcast traditional hymns like Silent Night, We Three Kings, Frosty the Snowman and Jingle Bells. We can even buy Christmas cards, like the classic that says, “Santa Bless You!”

Heart to Heart
Chinese have also taken to Valentine’s Day with a passion (literally!). A girl gas station attendant in a remote town asked me, “Did you buy your wife flowers? It’s that day, you know!” Shops and stalls are full of roses. Kids sell them on street sides. And stores have Valentine’s cards, and cute little sweetheart figurines—with a Chinese slant to them!

One student said, “We Chinese learned about Valentines from the West.” I said, “With a 1.3 billion population, I doubt it!”

Buffaloed and Bamboozled

Back in the early 1990s I was surprised by a string of China Daily articles claiming that trditional Chinese medicine cured everything from Aids to acne and baldness. We've come to see that such inflated claims are common. What surprises me is that people so readily believe them...

Bamboozled! In late 1999, I spent two months in a Hong Kong hospital. When I returned home to Xiamen University, a Chinese professor of literature visited me, doffed his shirt, and demonstrated vigorously how to use a 25 cent bamboo back scratcher. "Do this three tines a day," he said, "and you'll never have cancer again!" As he scoured his back, arms and belly, he added, "But you have to use a bamboo back scratcher. "No others work."

Another Nail in the Coughin’ Years ago, when our young sons' had colds and fevers that lasted a couple weeks, another famous professor told us that a certain award-winning cough medicine cured colds in 3 days, guaranteed. When I asked him why his own daughter had not been cured of the cold she’d had for over a week, he glared at me as if he understood why some animals ate their young, and replied, “It’s a different cold than last week.”

Rubbed the Wrong Way One Chinese Doctor heard Matthew had a fever and showed up on our doorstep, uninvited, waltzed in, vigorously rubbed a silver coin on Matt’s forehead, and pronounced, “Now the fever is gone.” and rose to make a dignified departure.

“Wait a minute,” I said, "let me check. I took Matt’s temperature. “It’s still 104!” I said.

“No it isn’t,” the doctor said. “The silver coin always works, so the thermometer is wrong.” And he packed up his satchel and left.

An Arm and a Leg Some medicines do work, of course, and even cure what Western medicine` cannot—like some kinds of asthma. And I know an herbalist who has cured king cobra bites with herbs. “I’ve never lost a patient!” he boasted. “If they had gone to a hospital instead, they would have had at least an arm or a leg amputated.”

“That’s nothing!” I said. “American hospitals charge an arm and a leg!”

Buffaloed! This brings us to the buffalo horn Chinese comb (I combed the country to find this!). The package claims (and I quote!):

“Comb having a long history in China. The pure natural horn of ox or sheep is being adopted to form the highly finished product through modern scientific technology. Using comb… will expel the fire-evil of the head and remove the scrap from the scalp with the most tender and comfort feeling resulting to smooth the skin and protect the hair to clear the mind to regulate the vital energy and blood of the whole body and improve the peripheral blood circulation. IT is beneficial to grey hair and loss of hair and it has the effect of decreasing fatty material in the blood and regulating blood pressure.”
MADE IN CHINA

It is amazing that they can make such claims, in writing, with a straight face! But even more amazing is the fact that many Chinese believe them! But I guess we Americans are just as gullible.

You don't really "see" home until you've left it for awhile and returned. Almost every time I return to the U.S., someone tries to involve me in some multi-level scheme to get rich from using and selling the latest health cure-all. How about $30 for a bottle of fruit sugar pills? And magnetized bracelets are attracting a following with claims to cure everything from high blood pressure (if worn on the right wrist) to arthritis, sports injuries and impotence. A friend gave me a bed mattress with small round magnets scattered throughout it; said it would take 20 years off my age, and he was almost right. They stabbed me in the back every time I tried to sleep and took at least 20 years off my life, if not my age.

I laugh at the naivete of Chinese, but it seems we Americans also strain at gnats and swallow camels.

Enjoy Amoy!

Dr. Bill
Xiamen University MBA Center
www.amoymagic.com

Thursday, September 11, 2008

Style of Nothingness-Seduction of Accessories



Just passed through Seoul's Incheon Airport today--my favorite airport, which is convenient because our favorite airlines is Korean Airlines. The simplest (and usually cheapest) route from California to Xiamen is Korean Airlines from Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) to Seoul to Xiamen. And while at the Seoul airport, we enjoy the free internet, nice lounges with couches to lay on, and the relative quiet.

Sometime over the past year they've removed the airport, adding a museum-like display of traditional Chinese art and costumes near the lounge. I like the Asian clothing--sleeves that are two feet too long, waists that could fit someone 60 inches in girth, all bound up. They say it's style but I just think that in the old days the tailors didn't have measuring tapes. Still--some beautiful costumers. The elegance reminds me somewhat of Japan (imagine having a little slippered Japanese wife following behind! Of course, my made-in-Taiwan blonde wife Susan follows me behind, but not demurely; it's usually to keep me in line...).

But though I enjoy Seoul airport's museum-like displays, I think they should work on the English-unless they seriously mean for their English motto to really be "Style of Nothingness, Seduction of Accessories." Because in fact there is a lot of nothing to many styles nowadays, and people do seemed to be seduced by accessories--and in China as well.

Last year, before I passed out the final exams, my students handed me an elegantly packaged dunhill leather belt (probably fake, of course). I've seen belts sold in Xiamen for $300 USD! What on earth is the point? I can get a perfectly service belt on the night market for $5 USD!

Of course, it probably looks like a $5 belt, and lasts perhaps twice as long as the Chinese minister of commerce's famous "One Day" Shoes" that sparked an anti-shoddy quality campaign about ten years ago.
Enjoy Amoy!
Dr. Bill Xiamen University MBA Center


Well.... here's a scan of the Style of Nothingness Seduction of Accessories brochure from the Korean Airport. I'm not sure if they really mean it, or someone was having fun with the translation--but the airport itself is a delight, so visit Seoul and indulge in the style of nothingness.

Tuesday, September 9, 2008

No Xiamen--No U.S.A.!

U.S. Presence to Expand in Xiamen!
The U.S. Consulate in Guangzhou e-mailed and they are expanding their presence in Fujian Province, including Xiamen! That's good news for Xiamen--and the U.S. as well. Fujian, especially Xiamen, is very strategic for the U.S., and has been for centuries. It's 1/3 of the way between Hong Kong and Shanghai, on the coast facing Taiwan, home to most Overseas Chinese, home to China's only Key university in a Special Economic Zone (Xiamen University), and, most importantly, my home. :)

No Xiamen, no U.S.A.?
And, as I told over 400 American business people in a luncheon in Guangzhou a couple years ago, after Condoleeza (sp.?) Rice's special advisor had lectured us for half an hour, had it not been for Xiamen, there would not even be a U.S. of A! Remember the Boston Tea Party? December, 1773--the tea tossed into the sea was Anxi tea, shipped out of Xiamen Harbor. So were it not for Xiamen we'd still be a British colony and our judges would be wearing white wigs. I rest my case.

No Xiamen, No New World?
By the way, Columbus was not seeking a New World but a shortcut to an ancient world. His goal? India, or China (specifically, Zaytun, ancient start of the Maritime Silk Route, which is Quanzhou, 70 km. to the north of us in Xiamen). Columbus' copy of Marco Polo's Travels was dog-eared and underlined on the pages about Zaytun, which told of its fabulous wealth. "For every ship laden with pepper sailing out of Christendom, 100 sail from Zaytun", he wrote (I paraphrase, as its from memory, but I'm sure it was pepper, or Dr. Pepper, or perhaps it was Pepsi).

So...no Xiamen (which was Zaytun's deepest port), no America!
Enjoy Amoy!

Monday, September 8, 2008

The Ancient Chinese IRS

As I work on the book "Old Amoy in Foreigners' Eyes", using old texts and photos from my home library (Click here for a partial list), I come across some fascinating insights. This passage from one of MacGowan's books was about the ancient system of taxes, which was not overly oppressive, and the tactics of tax collectors--which were oppressive indeed. Read on to learn about the ANCIENT CHINESE INFERNAL REVENUE SERVICE!
Bill Brown Magic Xiamen--Guide to Xiamen and Fujian

Reverend John MacGowan, Lights and Shadows of Chinese Life, North China Daily News and Herald Limited, Shanghai 1909

FEW TAXES p. 3
With the exception of the dues collected at the various custom houses throughout the country, the only direct tax imposed by the Imperial Government is the land tax. Taxes for education, for the army and navy, for the defence of the Empire, as well as rates for the police, the poor, etc., are absolutely unknown. The civil list in China is a very model of simplicity, and gives the executive very little anxiety, for there are automatic systems that have been in existence from the earliest times that provide for the salaries and expenses of public servants in a manner highly satisfactory to everyone, excepting to the long-suffering masses from whom the money is extracted.

LAND TAX
The land tax… is a fixed one and was settled in A.D. 1644, when the present dynasty came into power. The land registers were then revised, and the amount that every man’s farm or holding had to pay was fixed by the imperial authorities. This seems to have been done in a very fair and generous spirit. The Government which affects to be a paternal one showed in this case, at least, great anxiety that this tax should not be an oppressive one….

As lands vary greatly in fertility, there was no uniformity in the levying of these taxes…in all cases due care has been taken that the farmers shall not be unduly distressed.

The Ancient Chinese IRS
Now whilst the land tax is in itself a very moderate one, the method of its collection renders it very oppressive, and certainly at all times it is more or less a source of trouble and vexation. The Government has entrusted the collection of it to a body of men that are notoriously of ill-repute, and who fro the very nature of the case must be dishonest. Not only have they no salaries, but they have actually to purchase their positions. The only privilege they demand in return for this outlay of their money is a free hand to get as much out of the people, by guile, by ruse, or by cunning, as they can; only they must be careful that everything they do must have an appearance of legality. Law, and ancient custom, and hoary traditions are sacred in the eyes of the Chinese, but there are a thousand-and-one ways by which these may be evaded, while the semblance of respect for them is still maintained.

A free-handed system like this exactly suits the genius of the Chinese, who prefer oblique methods to direct ones. It opens out a boundless field, where money can be gained more easily than by settled salaries….

Day One

Greetings from Amoy (old name for Xiamen, Fujian). I tried this a couple years ago and never got anywhere. I'll try again. I'm in California but headed back to Xiamen in 5 days, after 10 weeks in California researching for a couple of historical books I'm writing about Xiamen, my home for over 20 years.
Visit our main website, AmoyMagic -- Guide to Xiamen and Fujian

Also check out the historical texts and photos for the Amoy Mission Project.

Enjoy Amoy!

Dr. Bill
Xiamen University
Xiamen, Fujian

Way Off the Wall--Two Decades in the Dragon

I've written a monthly "Off the Wall" newsletter for friends and family ever since we arrived in Xiamen (former Amoy) back in October 1988. I've toyed with the idea of an Off the Wall blog for years, so now I'll give it a go. Not sure if anyone will read it or not, but... here's life in China from the perspective of an American family who has been here 20 years.

No Change in China People often ask me, "Have you seen a lot of change in China?" I answer, "Nope! No change! Taxi drivers don't have any change. Bankers don't have any change...."

360 Degrees of Change But seriously, there has been lots of change. The difference between China today and China of 1988 is night and day. As a Xiamen University graduate student in Economics told me, "In the past 20 years China has turned around 360 degrees!" That guy will make a good economist--in Beijing or Washington (or the way things are going, both).

Bill Brown
Xiamen University
www.amoymagic.com